On the Road with the Grape Guy

On the Road with the Grape Guy is a on-going feature that follows me from event to event ... I post my thoughts, feelings and reviews of what happened and what I tasted ... basically it is here that I review the events I attend and the things that thrilled me.

Day Two of Tastings - Montefalco 2023

07 Jan 2024

(April 2023) … Once again, kudos to the PR company Miriade & Partners who make Day 2 even more interesting than Day 1. Using an app you pre-select the wineries you wish to visit and they shuttle journalists to their selected venues at pre-determined times. Ingenious. Sometimes you are the only journalist at your selected venue; other times you find yourself in a group. This is the way gems are discovered. Instead of being forced into going to the same-old wineries that only interest a handful in your party. I checked out a couple of fresh places (to me) and a couple of old favourites. I wish other regions did this type of visit “schedule” and if you are interested in knowing how, I have a PR agency for you to contact.

Today my chosen wineries were Le Thadee, Tenuta Saragano (gem), Luca di Tomaso (gem) and Scacciadiavoli
– those without the term “gem” beside their name I’ve visited before and I already knew they were, that’s why I went back.


Le Thadiee 2018 Carlo Re Le Thadee
(Sagrantino)
Amphora fermented, then spends two-and-a-half years in tonneau. Black fruit dominated nose with a palate that is dusty and dense - this is also a wine that needs some time, but I have faith the fruit will appear - the nose is too good for it not to. I’m judging it on the now, not its future potential.  (*** ½+)    

Le Thadee 2019 Pio IX    
(Sagrantino)
Coffee and leather on the nose - interestingly dry on the palate, but also fighting with the sugars and sweetness.  (*** ½)    

 


Tenuta Saragano 2017 Rosso
(Sangiovese 60% / Merlot 25% / Sagrantino 15%)
Winemaking/winery goes back 32 generations. They have the highest elevation vineyards of the region (500m), which would have been foolhardy for 30 of those 32 previous generations. But now they look like geniuses. Proving that genius takes time to be recognized. Some of their Sagrantino vines are 50+ year of age, and this wine spends 18 months in oak … Nice fruit on the palate with smoky and gritty note to be found. Needs more time as this is fairly rustic in nature.  (*** ½)

Tenuta Saragano 2017 Riserva    Saragano Boys
(Sangiovese 60% / 20% each Merlot - Sagrantino)
2 years in oak: smoky, mocha, black cherry, blackberry, cassis, black plum ... there's a juiciness in the mouth mid-palate, and a nice hit of tannins. Opens smooth and silky, but still with that tannic bite. On of, if not the best, Riserva tasted through the week (video to come).  (****+)    

Tenuta Saragano 2016 Montefalco Sagrantino
(Sangrantino)
Black fruit, smoky, oaky and chewy - but there’s that lovely fruit up front before the tannins take over and the palate becomes dry and a bit leathery.  (****+)    

Saragano WinesTenuta Saragano 2007 Montefalco Sagrantino    
(Sangrantino) – older wine
Soft and smooth with coffee, mocha leather and smoky notes lingering about. Great acidity and tannins still hang on.  YES - drink up now.    

Tenuta Saragano NV (2019) Umbria Rosso    
(Sangiovese / Merlot)
Nice fruit forward wine, with cherry, wild blueberry and backed by a smoky nuance.  (*** ½+)    


Luca di Tomaso 2019 Rosso
(Sangiovese / Cabernet Sauvignon / Sagrantino)
Luca started winery when he was 23 – he is now 30 - he moved from Milan, where he worked in his family restaurant, to start the project. Dark fruit, really supple, subtle spice and a lovely mouth feel - this is going places and I want to follow.  (****+)    

Luca di Tomaso 2018 Rosso
(Sangiovese / Cabernet Sauvignon / Sagrantino)
More astringent, acidity is more prominent, plus dark fruit; still needs a few years to emerge.  (*** ½+)    

Luca di Tomaso 2017 Rosso Tomasi
(Sangiovese / Cabernet Sauvignon / Sagrantino)
Hot season with an early frost … aggressive tannins, plus dark fruit, leather, smoky, and even some sweet/tart fruit-leather notes all introduced by a nice perfume.  (*** ½)

Luca di Tomaso 2016 Rosso
(Sangiovese / Cabernet Sauvignon / Sagrantino)
Floral and smoky, tannins seem less aggressive and drinks well, all with a touch a herbaceousness.  (*** ½)    

Luca di Tomaso 2016 Sagrantino
(Sagrantino)
Aggressive tannins, but the front palate has some lovely red and black fruit all held together by good acidity - needs time, but it has the stuffing to go places.  (*** ½+)    


Scaccia RoseScacciadiavoli NV Brut    
(85% Sagrantino / 15% Chardonnay)
36 months on lees in the traditional method - lovely freshness and crispness, apple, peach, nice minerality; still one of the best bubbles in the area.  (****)    

Scacciadiavoli NV Brut Rose
(Sagrantino)
24 months on lees in the traditional method - a little oxidized and strange - lacks that pretty freshness showcased on the Brut.  (***+)    

Scacciadiavoli 2021 Spoleto    
(Trebianno Spoletino)
Bright and fresh - but with a little oxidation on the back end, that detracts a little from the finish.  (*** ½)    

Scacciadiavoli 2021 Montefalco Rosso    
(60% Sangiovese / 25% Merlot / 15% Sagrantino)
Nice red berry fruit, a little blackberry slides through on the mid-palate, and there’s a little spice, backed with good acidity.  (****)    

Scacciadiavoli 2019 Montefalco Sagrantino
(Sagrantino)
Spicy wood character, but the mid-palate has a juicy-spiciness, along with some raspberry and cherry notes. It is very well-balanced.  (****+)    

Scacciadiavoli 2019 Passito
(Sagrantino)
Black cherry, with a hint of tobacco; these wines never come across as sweet and cloying.  (****)   

 

Abruzzo Grand Tasting 2023

20 Dec 2023

 

(June 2023) … Abruzzo is an area well-suited for wine. It sits on the Adriatic side of Italy and it’s growing region lies between the sea and the Gran Sasso and Majella “massifs” (mountains). This allows for diurnal temperature fluctuation, and that in turn helps the grapes mature in sugar and retain acidity for balance.

Rock WallBy the Numbers … There are 6000 producers, 35 co-operatives and 250+ wineries producing 3.4 million hectolitres and covering the area with 33,000 vines.

Montepulciano (red) is the superstar grape of the region, followed by Trebbiano (white) – there are also pockets of Pecorino, Cococciola, Montanico and Passerina. For my money, Pecorino is the all-star white, many of the best pale wines I tried were made from this variety.

Cerasuolo is the another staple from the area, sometimes described as a light red; this wine is the “rosé” of the region and is as distinctive as the name, which means cherry – a nod to both the colour and flavours within the wine.

Abruzzo is broken down into four main provinces: Chieti, which has 83% of the vines and is the largest wine producing area. Pescara makes up another 10%, Teramo 6% and L’Aquila is said to have the remainder (less than 1%).

The wines of the Grand Tasting are below – I did not taste everything in the room – I started with rosé (Cerasuolo) and then the rest of the time I tasted what struck my fancy, finding some real gems along the way. I also talk about my experience in the region on the podcast (Two Guys Talking Wine) wines are presented below in alphabetical order.

... THE WINES ... Me in Abruzzo

Cantina Valle Tritàna 2021 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC Aufinum
(Terre De L'aquila) ... (*** ½)
Cirelli 2022 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC La Collina Biologica
(Colline Teramane) ... (*** ½+)
Colle Moro 2020 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOP Sessantesimo
(Terre Di Chieti) ... (*** ½)
Collefrisio 2015 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC Semis
(Terre Di Chieti) ... (****+)
Contesa 2019 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC Terre Dei Vestini Riserva Chiedi Alla Polvere
(Colline Pescaresi) ... (*** ½+)
Contesa 2020 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC
(Colline Pescaresi) ... (*** ½)
Crea Vini 2017 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo Riserva Polibio
(Terre Di Chieti) ... (*** ½+)
Eredi Legonziano 2020 Abruzzo Spumante DOC Metodo Classico
(Terre Di Chieti) ... (****)
Famiglia De Cerchio 2020 Villamagna DOC
(Terre Di Chieti) ... (*** ½)
Famiglia De Cerchio 2021 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC Colle Maggio
(Terre Di Chieti) ... (*** ½)
Fattoria Nicodemi 2016 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC Riserva Neromoro
(Colline Teramane) ... (*** ½+)
Fosso Corno 2019 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC Riserva
(Colline Teramane) ... (*** ½)
Fosso Corno 2020 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC Mayro
(Colline Teramane) ... (*** ½+)
Fosso Corno 2021 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC Aires
(Colline Teramane) ... (*** ½)
Down the Road Idi Di Marzo 2021 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC Amarne
(Terre Di Chieti) ... (*** ½+)
Idi Di Marzo 2021 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC
(Terre Di Chieti) ... (*** ½+)
Marchesi De’ Cordano 2020 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC Aida
(Colline Pescaresi) ... (*** ½+)
Mazzarosa 2020 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC Vere Novo
(Colline Teramane) ... (*** ½+)
Nae 2018 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC Riserva Malamore
(Colline Teramane) ... (****+)
Nae 2021 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC ‘968
(Colline Teramane) ... (*** ½+)
Nic Tartaglia 2020 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC
(Colline Pescaresi) ... (****)
Nic Tartaglia 2022 Trebbiano D’Abruzzo DOC
(Colline Pescaresi) ... (*** ½)
Piandimare 2017 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC Riserva Maja
(Terre Di Chieti) ... (****+)
Piandimare 2019 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC Villamagna
(Terre Di Chieti) ... (****)
Piandimare 2020 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC Blue Label
(Terre Di Chieti) ... (*** ½)
San Nicola 2017 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC Pollutro Oro
(Terre Di Chieti) ... (****)
San Nicola 2019 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC Don Venanzio
(Terre Di Chieti) ... (*** ½)
Talamonti 2018 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC Riserva Tre Saggi Barrels by the Mountain
(Colline Pescaresi) ... (****)
Tenuta I Fauri 2021 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC Ottobre Rosso
(Terre Di Chieti) ... (*** ½+)
Tenuta Tre Gemme 2020 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC Renascenzia
(Colline Pescaresi) ... (*** ½+)
Tenuta Ulisse 2019 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOP Nativae
(Terre Di Chieti) ... (*** ½+)
Tenuta Ulisse 2020 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOP Amaranta
(Terre Di Chieti) ... (*** ½)
Tenuta Ulisse 2021 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOP Ulisse
(Terre Di Chieti) ... (*** ½)
Tenuta Ulisse 2022 IGP Terre Di Chieti Pecorino Ulisse
(Terre Di Chieti) ... (****+)
Terre D’erce 2018 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOP La Paurosa
(Terre Di Chieti) ... (*** ½)
Terre D’erce 2018 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC Riserva Luigi Sabatini
(Terre Di Chieti) ... (*** ½+)
Tocco 2018 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC Riserva Enisio
(Colline Pescaresi) ... (****)
Tocco 2021 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC Bio Capostazione
(Colline Pescaresi) ... (*** ½)
Baby Grapes Valle Reale 2020 Trebbiano D’Abruzzo DOC Vigneto Di Popoli
(Colline Pescaresi) ... (*** ½+)
Valle Reale 2020 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC Vigneto Sant’eusanio
(Colline Pescaresi) ... (****+)
Valle Reale 2022 Trebbiano D’Abruzzo DOC Valle Reale
(Colline Pescaresi) ... (*** ½)
Valle Reale 2022 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC Valle Reale
(Colline Pescaresi) ... (*** ½+)
Vignamadre - Famiglia Di Carlo 2017 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC Capo Le Vigne
(Terre Di Chieti) ... (****)
Vignamadre - Famiglia Di Carlo 2018 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC Becco Reale
(Terre Di Chieti) ... (*** ½+)

 

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