On the Road with the Grape Guy

On the Road with the Grape Guy is a on-going feature that follows me from event to event ... I post my thoughts, feelings and reviews of what happened and what I tasted ... basically it is here that I review the events I attend and the things that thrilled me.

Santa Margherita Lunch (Toronto)

30 Mar 2023

 

(June 2022) ... Learned quite a bitAmber53 at a Santa Margherita lunch back in June. Took my time getting this one out. Santa Margherita doesn't obviously need my help to sell wine, they do quite a job on their own. But when you learn something interesting you like to share it.

First, it is named after the founder's wife: Margherita Lampertico... Her husband, Gaetano Marzotto, was in textiles and decided to purchase 1000 hectares in Veneto. He started humbly, with cereals and cows and dedicated 150 hectares to vines. He also decided to build a glass factory along with a winery - thus integrating his business interests.

He then decided to create his own little village to help house his workers: Villa Nova Santa Margherita. The village did not only create housing, but also schools and theaters. His goal: "to create a special bond with the people to help achieve the projects goals" (or something like that?)

Prosecco production started 70 years ago in 1952 ... Pinot Grigio, which has been built up into the number one imported wine and imported Grigio over $18 - was started in 1961- and has been a game changer for the company.

Since then, Santa Margherita now has 12 estates in six regions, which includes a new acquisition in Oregon, USA- Roco Winery. Their other wineries include three in Tuscany (Chianti Classical and Maremma), two in Lombardy (Lombardy/Franciacorta), one in Lugana, one in Alto Adige, one in Sardinia and one in Sicily. When asked if there was a wish list of next regions, I was told, Umbria and Piedmont are top on that list.

As with many wineries today, Santa Margherita wanted to tout their sustainable initiatives and goals. And in truth, Santa Margherita has many that they are meeting or exceeding: Santa Margherita 1
They have abandoned chemical herbicides and embraced biodiversity. In their vineyards they have installed underground drip irrigation systems and are very focused on colonial selection to improve their wines. They have 2000 square meters of solar panels on their winery and produce 60% of their in-house needs... And their carbon zero initiative has donated to projects in Quebec, Leamington and Niagara - just to name a few on the eastern side of Canada.

Santa Margherita 2All in all, Santa Margherita produces 25.8 million bottles of wine of which 70% get exported

Just two wines were tasted today, the staple Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio, a review of which can be found here - (scroll down to Italy). One of the better vintages of this wine I have tasted in many years. And their 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon, Veneto IGT which I found a little green, but with some dark fruit and smoky notes. The greenness turned into herbaceous on the finish but the acidity was good - the wine was simple, but still drinkable and paired well with my crispy salmon dish, (*** ½) - no small feat for a red wine.

Knowing that Veneto is Northern Italy, Cabernet Sauvignon is probably not the most reliable grape for that environment. The recent podcast with Ponte winery pretty much confirmed that theory: Veneto is best suited for Franc. But good on Santa Margherita for trying and pushing, the envelope.

 

Luce Dinner and Tasting with Alessandro Marini

24 Mar 2023

 

(November 2022) ... The iconic Tuscan Sun logo, with the capitalization of "Luce" on the orange background - a branded wine created by two familiar families: Mondavi and Frescobaldi in the early '90s. The vision of the time was to makeLuve WIne Glass an iconic Montalcino, Tuscan wine using the know-how of the two iconic owners.

Time has passed, Robert Mondavi has passed on and the selling of the company has created a different front office; but behind the scenes the art of winemaking continues, and the Frescobaldi brand has expanded, now with full ownership of Luce along with their other iconic labels (Ornellaia, Masseto, plus Attems and Danzante) and their own estates : Nipozano, Castelgiocondo, Pomino, Castiglioni, Remole and Ammiraglia (6 in total)

Tonight, we taste with the new winemaker of Tenuta Luce, Alessandro Marini, who took the reins in 2018. Italian trained with French experience in Pomerel at Petrus, he is intimately familiar with Merlot, the basis for the Luce's iconic flagship wine.

Luce wines...

Luce Wine2019 Lucente … paired with carne crudo
This is Luce entry level wine 75% Merlot and 25% Sangiovese from their 88 hectares state*. Mostly the young vines go into the wine, those grown on lighter soils. It's fruit driven with mocha, and a hint of dustiness with a lovely approachability.  (*** ½+)

2019 Luce … paired with pappardelle d'anatra Pappardelle and Wine
A 50/50 split between Merlot and Sangiovese sourced from their oldest vines: earthy with good acidity: pleasantly dark fruited with smokey elements and a long finish that peppers in cedar and oak notes.  (****)

2017 Luce Brunello … paired with controfiletto di manzo
This is 100% Sangiovese, grown at the highest part of the estate to keep freshness and acidity in the grapes. It is then aged the required time in Slavonian oak: leathery and spicy with lots of complexity - the acidity rises to the occasion, and causes the drinker to say “wow!” – as I heard plenty of those around my table. There's plenty of red fruit and even a hint of orange rind gracing the olfactories. Best wine of the night.  (**** ½)

* The makeup of the estate vineyard is 55% Merlot, 30% Sangiovese, 3% Cabernet Sauvignon

Get Our Newsletter

* indicates required

Follow Us on Social Media

Facebook Twitter Instagram YouTube

RSS feed