On the Road with the Grape Guy

On the Road with the Grape Guy is a on-going feature that follows me from event to event ... I post my thoughts, feelings and reviews of what happened and what I tasted ... basically it is here that I review the events I attend and the things that thrilled me.

Rhone Valley Winemakers Tour

20 Dec 2024

(November 2023) … I have often called the Rhone Valley my “desert island region” – if I am stuck on a desert island and I can only get wine from one region, well need I say more … Today, we get a crash course in Rhone Valley wines from the people who know it best: their winemakers.

By the numbers … CdR Winemaker 4

-    31 Appellations in the Rhone Valley
-    34 Grape varieties grown
-    over 2000 years of production
-    2nd behind Bordeaux for AOC vineyards (31)
-    65,197 hectares: 76% red wine / 19% rosé / 11% white
-    1592 independent wineries
-    Canada ranks 4th in exports (9%) - Belgium 18% / UK 15% / USA 14%
-    Interesting to learn: 1 million bottles of Rhone Valley wine is sold every day - 1/3 are in export markets
-    Production in the Rhone is a majority down in the south: 5% in the north / 95% in the south
-    There are 17 Crus / 22 Cotes du Rhone Villages (geographical names) / Cotes du Rhone Villages (95 communes) / Cotes du Rhone (171 communes)
-    For those interested in climate effect: in the last 28 years, the average harvest is now 15 days earlier
-    Looking for mitigate heat rises, one must plant vines higher up: for each 100m up you lose .65 degrees of temperature
-    Grenache most planted red grape - Grenache 49% - Syrah 29% - top two grape varieties - Carignan / Counoise are secondary grapes that are working well with climate change

______________________________

The Grapes of the Rhone Valley
(abbreviated from Rhone Valley handout) CdR Winemaker 3

GRENACHE NOIR
“Grenache, the most widely grown grape variety in the Rhône Valley, is a charmer, offering both warmth and roundness of character.”

SYRAH
“This grape was for a long time believed to have originated in Persia, Syria, or perhaps Syracuse. However, recent analyses have shown its roots to be in Savoy and the Ardèche.”

CARIGNAN
“The Carignan vine requires plenty of warmth and is not sensitive to drought or strong winds. Hot, dry hillsides are ideal. On low-fertility soils and hillsides, it yields a beautifully coloured wine, well-structured with plenty of tannins.”

MOURVÈDRE
“Mourvèdre is now widely cultivated in the southern Rhône Valley on sun-drenched south-facing slopes. Robust, of unequalled warmth and generosity, it yields wines that are powerful, full-bodied, strong in tannins, yet very stylish - since 2002 has had its own fan club, the ‘Conservatoire du cépage Mourvèdre’”.

CINSAULT
“Requires plenty of warmth and is resistant to drought and strong winds. With its average depth of colour, stylish fruity flavours, low acidity and supple tannins, Cinsault is well suited for making rosé wines by the “saignée” method and early drinking wines.”

GRENACHE BLANC
“Grenache Blanc produces white wines that are full-bodied, low in acidity, mellow, with a lingering finish.”

MUSCAT BLANC
“The small-berried Muscat Blanc grape is of Greek origin. It is the only permitted grape variety in the composition of Muscat Beaumes De Venise wines.”

VIOGNIER
“Originally, it was grown exclusively in the northern Côtes du Rhône (from Vienne to Valence). Today, this white grape variety stands out as much for its rarity as for the complexity of some of its aromas.”

LA CLAIRETTE
“Clairette is one of southern France’s oldest grape varieties, typical of the Mediterranean region. The vine is well adapted to dry, infertile limestone soils. Clairette can be vinified on its own or blended with other grape varieties. The grapes produce a fruity wine, high in alcohol content and low in acidity.”

LA ROUSSANNE
 “It does well on soils that are warm, stony and well drained, on thin, arid hillside soils, and on stony soils consisting of alluvial deposits and limestone. It is a delicate and very stylish grape. Roussanne produces wines of great elegance, stylish and complex.”

 CdR Winemaker 6

The Wines Tasted …

Halos de Jupiter 2020 Red - Cotes du Rhone CdR Winemaker 2
(Grenache 75% - Mourvedre 15% - Syrah 10%)
Smoky-cherry, strawberry and other dense dark fruits - good oak integrations with sweet herbs and spices.  (****+)

Cave de Tain 2018 Hermitage Heritiers Gambert
(Syrah 100%)
Plum and cherry - licorice and spice – with subtle herbal notes. (****)

Chateau Beaubois 2022 Cuvee Confidence - Costieres de Nimes
(Grenache Blanc 95% - Viognier 3% - Roussanne 2%)
Touches of minerality and freshness, with decent acidity. There are hints of pineapple and fresh lime on the mid-palate through to the finish.  (****)

Chateau du Trignon (Famille Quiot) 2017 Red - Gigondas
(Grenache - Mourvedre – Syrah)
Lots of spicy dark fruit: plum, blackberry, black cherry, licorice, with a pleasant herbal component.  (****)

Domaine Autrand 2020 Cotes du Rhone Villages
(Grenache Noir 70%, Syrah 30%)
Nice spicy nature with darker fruit and smoke. Notes of blueberry, cassis and smoked-cherry.  (****)

Domaine de la Citadelle 2022 Le Chataignier - Luberon
(60% Syrah, 30% Grenache et 10% Cinsault)
Gentle acidity, fresh and lively with pretty floral character, along with some apricot and peach.  (*** ½+)

Domaine des Garances 2022 Alazard - Beaumes de Venise
(Grenache noir 65%, Syrah 35%)
Spicy dark fruit.  (*** ½+)

CdR Winemaker 1Lavau 2022 White - Cotes du Rhone
(Grenache Blanc 60% - Clairette 40%)
Decent and soft of acidity; there is pineapple and peach, richer mouthfeel.  (*** ½+)

Mas Carlot 2020 Generations - Costieres de Nimes
(Grenache noir 55%, Syrah 40%, Mourvèdre 5%)
Dark fruited: blackberry and smoke with cocoa character on the finish.  (*** ½+)

Cave de Bonnieux 2020 Cuvee Revelation - Luberon
(Syrah 85% - Grenache 15%)
Juicy blackberry, fresh plum, and subtle spicy notes on the finish.  (*** ½)

Chateau d'Aqueria 2022 Rose - Tavel
(Grenache 50% - Syrah 20% - Clairette 10% - Mourvedre 10% - Bourboulenc 5% - Cinsault 5%)
Strawberry-sour cherry dominant, subtle white pepper, with some lime pith on the finish. (*** ½)

Chateau D'Orsan 2022 Cotes du Rhone Villages Chusclan
(Grenache noir 50%, Syrah 40%, Carignan 10%)
Dark fruited and earthy (*** ½)

Les Vignes de L'Arque 2022 Cuvee Les Chemins de Rome - Duche d'Uzes
(Grenache Blanc 40% - Viognier 40% - Roussanne 20%)
Tropical, yet soft with a subtle bitterness that helps balance the wine.  (*** ½)

Maison Sinnae 2021 Villa Voltinia - Cotes du Rhone Villages, Chusclan
(Grenache Noir, Syrah)
Smoky, dark fruited and earthy- good acidity with some oak influence on the finish.  (*** ½)

Cave de Cairanne 2021 Cuvee Insouciante - Cotes du Rhone
(Grenache)
Juicy and easy drinking – quite gulpable.  (***+)

 

The Franc of the Saumur

18 Dec 2024

 Saumur Franc top

(October 2023) ... Of the Cabernet Franc regions visited, and wines tasted, Saumur, Saumur Champigny and Saumur Puy-Notre-Dame were by far the most impressive. The ripeness of the fruit led to wines of great colour and depth of flavour, very few had the stalky / vegetal nature that one has associated with Cabernet Franc in the past from the Loire – or better yet, under-ripe Cabernet Franc, even to this day, which exist in with other regions within the Loire, even today.

I look forward to Saumur and all its areas to continue its version of nice, approachable, ripe, fruity Franc, and show the Loire can truly deliver – there’s a new ambassador for quality Franc in the region.

Saumur has 2 regions, 3 departments and 7 AOCs; the first of which was established in 1936. The main grapes in this 4000-hectare part of the Loire are Chenin Blanc (white) and Cabernet Franc (red) – they create upward of 28 million bottles of wine and boast 350 producers.

Saumur Franc middle

The AOCs:
Saumur Rouge – est. 1936 … 570 ha / Cabernet Franc
Saumur Blanc – 350 ha / Chenin Blanc
Saumur Rosé – 80 ha / Cabernet Franc
Saumur Brut – 1300 ha / 10 million bottles produced / Chenin for white, Franc for Rosé
Saumur Champigny – 1600 ha / 11 million bottles produced / Cabernet Franc
Saumur Puy-Notre-Dame – est. 2008 … 75 ha / 400,000 bottles produced / Cabernet Franc
Coteaux du Saumur – 15 ha all Chenin

Saumur’s breakdown of wine production:
55% Red, 32% bubbles, 10% white, 2% rosé and 1% sweet

Saumur Franc middle 2


Alliance Loire
Saumur Franc 22018 Cuvée Domaines Des Ormes (Saumur Rouge)Better +
2019 Chateau Du Bellay Vieilles VignesBetter +

Arnaud Lambert
2019 Moleton - Ok
2022 Terres Rouges - Better

Chateau de Villeneuve
2021 Chateau De Villeneuve - Ok
2019 Le Grand Clos - Better

Domaine de L’Enchantoir
2021 Ilôt Des Biches (Saumur Rouge) - Good
2019 Pied À L’étrier (Saumur Puy-Notre-Dame) - Ok
2018 Clos Du Petit Chavannes (Saumur Puy-Notre-Dame) - Better

Domaine de La Paleine
2022 La Paleine (Saumur Rouge) - Better Saumur Franc 3
2019 Saumur Puy-Notre-Dame (Saumur Puy-Notre-Dame) - Better (VIDEO)
2022 Maison Cassée (Saumur Puy-Notre-Dame) - Better +

Domaine de La Renière
2022 La Renière (Saumur Rouge) - Better
2021 Moulin Repenti (Saumur Puy-Notre-Dame) - Better +

Domaine de Nerleux
2022 Cuvee Des Nerleux - Good +
2020 Les Loups Noirs - Better + (VIDEO)

Domaine des Closiers
Saumur Franc 82019 Trezellieres - Better
2022 Les ClosiersBetter +

Domaine des Hautes Vignes
2020 Cuvée Vieilles Vignes (Saumur Rouge) - Good
2018 Cuvée Vieilles Vignes (Saumur Rouge) - Good +
2018 Saumur-Champigny - Better

Domaine des Sanzay
2022 Domaine - Good +
2022 Les Poyeux - Better
2020 Les Dares - Good +

Domaine du Ruault
2020 La SourceBetter +
2017 SenseiGood +
2017 Le Clos De La Cote - Better

Domaine du Vieux Pressoir
2020 Cuvée Les Silices (Saumur Rouge) - Good + Saumur Franc 4
2021 Cuvée Caradoc (Saumur Puy-Notre-Dame) - Better
2020 Cuvée Origine (Saumur Puy-Notre-Dame) - Good

Domaine La Bonnelière
2022 Cuvée Gourmandine (Saumur Rouge) – Good +
2022 Tradition - Better
2020 Les PoyeuxBetter +

Domaine Mélaric
2020 Cuvée Billes De Roche (Saumur Puy-Notre-Dame) - Good +
2019 Cuvée Clos De La Cerisaie (Saumur Puy-Notre-Dame) - Better

Domaine Saint Landor
Saumur Franc 102021 Cuvée Domaine (Saumur Rouge) - Ok
2020 Cuvée Domaine (Saumur Rouge) - Good +
2020 Cuvée L’obligé (Saumur Puy-Notre-Dame) - Better + (VIDEO)

Earl Domaine Ratron - Clos Des Cordeliers
2020 Clos Des Cordeliers TraditionGood +
2018 Clos Des Cordeliers Prestige - Better

La Seigneurie
2020 Vieilles Vignes À Pierrot - Good +

Manoir de La Tête Rouge
2021 Cuvée Bagatelle (Saumur Rouge) - Good +
2019 Cuvée Enchentoir (Saumur Puy-Notre-Dame) - Better +
2019 Cuvée Tête De Lard (Saumur Puy-Notre-Dame) – Better

 Saumur Franc bottom

Get Our Newsletter

* indicates required

Follow Us on Social Media

Facebook Twitter Instagram YouTube

RSS feed