On the Road with the Grape Guy

The Franc of the Saumur

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Category: On the Road with the Grape Guy

(October 2023) ... Of the Cabernet Franc regions visited, and wines tasted, Saumur, Saumur Champigny and Saumur Puy-Notre-Dame were by far the most impressive. The ripeness of the fruit led to wines of great colour and depth of flavour, very few had the stalky / vegetal nature that one has associated with Cabernet Franc in the past from the Loire – or better yet, under-ripe Cabernet Franc, even to this day, which exist in with other regions within the Loire, even today.

I look forward to Saumur and all its areas to continue its version of nice, approachable, ripe, fruity Franc, and show the Loire can truly deliver – there’s a new ambassador for quality Franc in the region.

Saumur has 2 regions, 3 departments and 7 AOCs; the first of which was established in 1936. The main grapes in this 4000-hectare part of the Loire are Chenin Blanc (white) and Cabernet Franc (red) – they create upward of 28 million bottles of wine and boast 350 producers.

The AOCs:
Saumur Rouge – est. 1936 … 570 ha / Cabernet Franc
Saumur Blanc – 350 ha / Chenin Blanc
Saumur Rosé – 80 ha / Cabernet Franc
Saumur Brut – 1300 ha / 10 million bottles produced / Chenin for white, Franc for Rosé
Saumur Champigny – 1600 ha / 11 million bottles produced / Cabernet Franc
Saumur Puy-Notre-Dame – est. 2008 … 75 ha / 400,000 bottles produced / Cabernet Franc
Coteaux du Saumur – 15 ha all Chenin

Saumur’s breakdown of wine production:
55% Red, 32% bubbles, 10% white, 2% rosé and 1% sweet

Alliance Loire
2018 Cuvée Domaines Des Ormes (Saumur Rouge) – Better +
2019 Chateau Du Bellay Vieilles Vignes – Better +

Arnaud Lambert
2019 Moleton - Ok
2022 Terres Rouges - Better

Chateau de Villeneuve
2021 Chateau De Villeneuve - Ok
2019 Le Grand Clos - Better

Domaine de L’Enchantoir
2021 Ilôt Des Biches (Saumur Rouge) - Good
2019 Pied À L’étrier (Saumur Puy-Notre-Dame) - Ok
2018 Clos Du Petit Chavannes (Saumur Puy-Notre-Dame) - Better

Domaine de La Paleine
2022 La Paleine (Saumur Rouge) - Better
2019 Saumur Puy-Notre-Dame (Saumur Puy-Notre-Dame) - Better (VIDEO)
2022 Maison Cassée (Saumur Puy-Notre-Dame) - Better +

Domaine de La Renière
2022 La Renière (Saumur Rouge) - Better
2021 Moulin Repenti (Saumur Puy-Notre-Dame) - Better +

Domaine de Nerleux
2022 Cuvee Des Nerleux - Good +
2020 Les Loups Noirs - Better + (VIDEO)

Domaine des Closiers
2019 Trezellieres - Better
2022 Les Closiers – Better +

Domaine des Hautes Vignes
2020 Cuvée Vieilles Vignes (Saumur Rouge) - Good
2018 Cuvée Vieilles Vignes (Saumur Rouge) - Good +
2018 Saumur-Champigny - Better

Domaine des Sanzay
2022 Domaine - Good +
2022 Les Poyeux - Better
2020 Les Dares - Good +

Domaine du Ruault
2020 La Source – Better +
2017 Sensei – Good +
2017 Le Clos De La Cote - Better

Domaine du Vieux Pressoir
2020 Cuvée Les Silices (Saumur Rouge) - Good +
2021 Cuvée Caradoc (Saumur Puy-Notre-Dame) - Better
2020 Cuvée Origine (Saumur Puy-Notre-Dame) - Good

Domaine La Bonnelière
2022 Cuvée Gourmandine (Saumur Rouge) – Good +
2022 Tradition - Better
2020 Les Poyeux – Better +

Domaine Mélaric
2020 Cuvée Billes De Roche (Saumur Puy-Notre-Dame) - Good +
2019 Cuvée Clos De La Cerisaie (Saumur Puy-Notre-Dame) - Better

Domaine Saint Landor
2021 Cuvée Domaine (Saumur Rouge) - Ok
2020 Cuvée Domaine (Saumur Rouge) - Good +
2020 Cuvée L’obligé (Saumur Puy-Notre-Dame) - Better + (VIDEO)

Earl Domaine Ratron - Clos Des Cordeliers
2020 Clos Des Cordeliers Tradition – Good +
2018 Clos Des Cordeliers Prestige - Better

La Seigneurie
2020 Vieilles Vignes À Pierrot - Good +

Manoir de La Tête Rouge
2021 Cuvée Bagatelle (Saumur Rouge) - Good +
2019 Cuvée Enchentoir (Saumur Puy-Notre-Dame) - Better +
2019 Cuvée Tête De Lard (Saumur Puy-Notre-Dame) – Better

Languedoc – Pic Saint-Loup in the Spotlight

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Category: On the Road with the Grape Guy

(MAY 3, 2023) … PIC SAINT-LOUP

This morning I sat in at on the Masterclass about Pic Saint Loup – here are some of the highlights.

One of the finest Vin de Garde regions of Languedoc. The Legend of the name:  there are three knights, named Loup / Guiral and Clair, are in love with the same woman, the woman dies. They decide to live in silence on different Mountain tops in the area – they light fires every year to commemorate the woman they loved. The last one left, survivor, to light a fire was "Loup".

Pic Saint-Loup is the most northerly of the regions: 658m above sea level at its highest peak – it has rugged terrain and plantings are at about 150-300m. And it was the last of the Languedoc sub-apps to receive its AOP status (2017).

The region encompasses 1400 hectares (approx), with 75 independent “domaines”, 3 co-ops, and the region breaks down its wine production into: 90% Red / 10% Rosé … it is also one of the wettest regions of Languedoc (1000mm / year); but with a relatively dry growing season (~150mm). The soils are dominated by limestone.

Syrah makes up at least 50%; with both Grenache and Mourvedre playing integral parts; blends must be a minimum of two of these grapes. Secondary grapes include: Carignan, Cinsault, Cournoise, Morristel – capped at 10% of a blend; minimum ageing is 9 months (many go much longer).

Rosés are made up of at least 30% Syrah and 2 of the main grapes; Grenache Gris is also allowed.

One thing that makes the region so desirable for winemaking is its great diurnal temperature variation.

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These are my honest, no-nonsense thoughts about the wines I tasted from the Languedoc’s various sub-regions presented on that day.

First, I provide my take on the region, based on all the wines I tried ... then I score the wines I liked on a scale of Good, Better, Best (then I list them alphabetically).

Chateau De Cazeneuve 2021 Les Calcaires ... Good
Château Fontanès 2019 Sereen ... Better
Château La Roque 2020 La Cupa ... Better
Château La Roque 2021 Château La Roque ... Good
Chateau Lancyre 2019 Grande Cuvée Rouge ... Good
Château L'euzière 2021 Almandin ... Good
Chemin Des Rêves 2021 Gueule De Loup ... Good
Domaine Cammaous Et Caussarelle 2019 Roubioire ... Better
Domaine Cammaous Et Caussarelle 2020 Cent Seize ... Good
Domaine De L'hortus 2020 Domaine De L'hortus "Grande Cuvée" ... Good
Domaine De L'hortus 2021 Bergerie De L'hortus ... Good
Domaine La Fournaca 2021 Le Baiser De La Vigne ... Good
Domaine Les Grandes Costes 2019 Les Grandes Costes ... Good
Domaine Mirabel 2021 Les Éclats ... Good
Domaine Uma 2020 Domaine Uma ... Better
Gaec Heritage Du Pic Saint Loup 2021 Sainte Agnes ... Better
Hommes Et Terres Du Sud 2021 La Cordée ... Good
La Gravette 2020 Gravettissime ... Good
La Gravette 2020 L'intégrale ... Good
La Gravette 2021 Rocastel ... Better
La Gravette 2022 A L'etat Pur ... Good
Puech Haut 2019 Lavabre ... Better
Vignobles Des 3 Châteaux 2019 Les Déesses Muettes Obsession ... Good
Vignobles Des 3 Châteaux 2020 La Célébration ... Good
Vignobles Des 3 Châteaux 2020 La Diablesse ... Good

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MASTERCLASS WINES … “Pic Saint-Loup – a wine for ageing”

La Bergerie du Capucin 2011 Larmanella:
Not thrilling: dark, pruney, with some VA … pluses: peppery and toasty

Chateau Lancyre 2010 Vieilles Vignes:
Still alive: good dried fruit extract with notes of licorice and good length; savoury notes with tobacco and cedar.

Chateau de Cazeneuve 2010 Le Sang du Calvaire:
80% Mourvedre; licorice, smoky, floral firm center, comes across very young in its flavour profile.

Chateau de Lascaux 2009 Les Secrets:
wow-wine … lively, elegant, delicate yet still fresh and punchy. Subtle dried fruit leather, with a punch of acid/tannin on the finish.

Heritage du Pic Saint Loup 2006 Sainte Agnes:
An education in bottle variation: 1) harsh with VA and coffee bean. 2) fresher, lighter, elegant dried fruit, quite drinkable and dry.