On the Road with the Grape Guy

On the Road with the Grape Guy is a on-going feature that follows me from event to event ... I post my thoughts, feelings and reviews of what happened and what I tasted ... basically it is here that I review the events I attend and the things that thrilled me.

Anteprima Vernaccia San Gimignano 2023

15 Aug 2023

(February 2023) ...

The Background ...

I have been coming to San Gimignano to taste Vernaccia for the past 10-plus years; and when I first arrived, I am almost ashamed to admit I came for the gelato of Dondoli - a master of his craft, he has at least three world championships under his belt. It was worth the trip to San Gimignano just for that. The wine? Not so much.Dondoli

The Reason …

The wines have been hit and miss over the years, with very few hits and so many misses. The most impressive winery I have found in these parts is Tenuta le Calcinaie; they have learned the art of keeping freshness in the wine without killing it with too much lees or oak contact.

A Change of Pace …

Wine Pour VernacciaI'm happy to report that the 2022 wines have plenty of examples of fresh, quaffable and crushable Vernaccia. I'd be thrilled to sit on a patio with many of these and drink the entire bottle, no gelato required; I’d even be thrilled to share them with friends. As I wrote in my notes at the bottom of a spreadsheet on the day of tasting:

"2022 is a turn-the-corner vintage, where freshness reigns supreme; lots of variations on a fresh grapefruit and pineapple combo; the only real difference is whether a winery was able to keep the acidity within the wine high to low or non-existent to bland. The vast majority of wines were in the good to better category; meaning, they were able to create a balanced, very drinkable wine.”

The Final Thought …

Kudos to the winemakers of the region who have hopped on the freshness train and stopped trying to make the wines in the old tradition, instead they have, for the most part, embraced a more modern approaches. This new direction marks a turning point for San Gimignano and Vernaccia, a grape that can now retake her throne as Queen of Tuscany with pride.Town of San Gimignano

Below are selected notes of the wines I tasted - since these are mostly part of the anteprima, and no other notations were made. I assumed the wines were all unfinished / barrel / bottle / tanks samples; therefore, I scored them all using my Good / Better / Best in ranking of potential.

Today 96 wines were tasted in total ... Most impressive were the wines from the 2022 vintage, which was the majority).

You’ll see some similarity in many of the notes I include, and believe me that is a good thing and I did it purposefully – it shows some consistency in the wines that has been sorely lacking in the past.

While 96 wines were tasted, only those that were deserving of a rating are included below.

BEST

Podere del Paradiso 2021 Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG Riserva - Biscondola
nice freshness here, strong acidity gives the wine great balance,
but in the end proved light and refreshing


BETTER

Abbazia Monteoliveto 2022 Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG
lots of pineapple and grapefruit
Cesani 2022 Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG - Cesani
Collina dei Venti 2022 Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG - Giadra
Fattoria La Torre 2022 Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG - Acquaiole
Fattoria La Torre 2022 Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG - La Villa
Fattoria Poggio Alloro 2022 Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG - Il Nicciaio
Fattorie Melini 2022 Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG - Le Grillaie
Geografico 2022 Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG - Borgo alla Terra
Guidi 2021 Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG Riserva - Aurea
nice mouthfeel / weight, grapefruit zest, long finish
Il Colombaio di Santa Chiara 2022 Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG - Selvabianca
Morfmoraia 2021 Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG - Ostrea
grapefruit pith cocktail - quite refreshing
San Benedetto 2020 Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG Riserva
pith and zest meet and have a party with the acidity
Signano 2022 Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG  
lots of pineapple and grapefruit
Tenuta La Vigna 2022 Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG
lots of pineapple and grapefruit
Tenuta le Calcinaie 2022 Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG
lots of pineapple and grapefruit
Teruzzi 2022 Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG - Isola Bianca
lots of pineapple and grapefruit
Toliena 2022 Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG - Lunario
lots of pineapple and grapefruit


GOOD

Vernaccia SignAlessandro Tofanari 2021 Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG - Sassa
grapefruit pith
Cappellasantandrea 2021 Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG - Rislto
grapefruit pith
Casa alle Vacche 2020 Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG Riserva - Crocus
there's a touch of sweetness left behind, but it is welcome
Casa alle Vacche 2022 Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG - I Macchioni
Casale Falchini 2022 Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG - Benozzo
Fattoria di Fugnano 2022 Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG - Da Fugnano
Fattoria La Torre 2021 Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG - Carromatto
canned pineapple
Fattoria Poggio Alloro 2022 Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG
Fattoria San Donato 2020 Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG - Angelica
pink grapefruit cocktail, sweet
Fattoria San Donato 2022 Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG
Fornacelle 2022 Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG
Il Colombaio di Santa Chiara 2020 Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG Riserva - L'Albereta
Il Colombaio di Santa Chiara 2021 Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG - Campo della Pieve
Il Lebbio 2022 Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG
Il Palagione 2020 Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG - Lyra
Il Palagione 2021 Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG Riserva - Ori
La Lastra 2020 Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG Riserva
it's white wine with no defining characteristics
La Lastra 2022 Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG
La Roccaia 2022 Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG
Montenidoli 2021 Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG - Fiore
grapefruit pith
Palagetto 2022 Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG - Santa Chiara
Panizzi 2022 Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG
notes of pineapple and grapefruit
Pietraserena 2022 Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG
notes of pineapple and grapefruit
Pietraserena 2022 Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG - Vigna del Sole
notes of pineapple and grapefruit
Podere Le Valute 2022 Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG
notes of pineapple and grapefruit
Poderi Arcangelo 2022 Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG - Primo Angelo
notes of pineapple and grapefruit
Poderi Arcangelo 2022 Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG - Terre del Lago
notes of pineapple and grapefruit
San Quirico 2022 Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG
grapefruit
Signano 2022 Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG - Poggiarelli
notes of pineapple and grapefruit
Tenuta Le Calcinaie 2020 Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG Riserva - Vigna ai Sassi
Terre di Sovernaja 2020 Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG Riserva - Assola
tastes better than its name might suggest
Terre di Sovernaja 2021 Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG - Viti Sparse
Teruzzi 2019 Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG Riserva - Sant'Elena
Tollena 2021 Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG - Toillena
grapefruit pith
Vagnoni 2020 Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG Riserva - I Mocali
Vagnoni 2021 Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG - Fontabuccio
grapefruit cocktail

 

Alsatian Digitasting

10 Aug 2023

(February 2023) … You would think that the days of the online tasting are over; what with the global pandemic on hiatus and all. But Alsace has embraced the online realm with their second annual “digitasting” ... And what an interesting concept it is.

Months before you are asked to select the wineries you want to taste, plus they will throw in a couple of extras for you to discover; they will also include the masterclass wines. About two weeks before the “event”, the wines appear at my door in neatly packed boxes: each containing four bottles with the instructions (paraphrased): “put whites in the fridge, reds at room temperature”. I received eight of these boxes in total, and only one had a leaky bottle. Each bottle contained about an ounce of wine - enough for a tasting, but not enough to throw a party.

I started by attending the masterclass called "So Trendy" ... Alsace wanted to prove they are "where all trends meet", and set about to prove it with an expert panel. The seminar was broken down into four topics with four wines representing the themes: So Fresh, So Terroir, So Sweet, and So Red.

My biggest takeaway from the class was that Alsace is all about acidity, so much so that you would believe that Alsace invented the stuff; but let's look at the wines, some of the comments from the panel assembled and a few other key points and takeaways.

So Fresh ...
Domaine Schoffit 2020 Riesling
This wine was truly a fresh Riesling, easy to drink with all that lovely minerality, apple, pear and a touch of floral that one expects in Riesling.
Quotes:
"Throw it in the fridge and keep going back to it."
"Let's not talk, let's drink."
Takeaway: Alsace proved their point – their wines do have a freshness about them.

So Terroir ...
Domained Schlumberger 2017 Riesling - Alsace Grand Cru "Kitterle"
A more elegant Riesling that showed earthy, mineral and salty notes; nice complexity and dryness on the palate.
Quotes / Concepts:
"Who can define terroir, it's impossible."
Terroir also includes man's hand: same terroir, two wines, made by different winemakers from the same grape variety equals completely different wines.
Takeaway: Alsace obviously has a unique terroir destined to make Riesling with personality and character.

So Sweet ...
Domaine Hurst 2020 Gewurztraminer, Vieilles Vignes
I found this one spicy, with little in the way of sweetness.
To me, this was the uninteresting part of the masterclass.
Takeaway: The panel just seemed to repeat themselves from the past two topics: acidity / terroir / acidity / terroir, oh and there is sweetness to be found here as well.

So Red ...
Cave de Ribeauville 2019 Pinot Noir "Rudern"
This is a Grand Cru wine, but the area remains unclassified. Nice purity of fruit with good tannins ... Light with notes of sour cherry, needs two three years to settle.
Takeaway: I had no idea that Alsace was so into Pinot Noir ... Most Pinot I tasted throughout the tasting were pretty interesting; starting with this one. I think Pinot might be Alsace’s hidden talent and gem.


Random Remarks ...
(from the masterclass – topics that were randomly discussed)

- white wine regions are having a Renaissance
- Alsace has over 100 years of sparkling wine tradition
- the AOC started in 1976
- Pinot Noir is the newest trend for Alsace
- Germany is the largest consumer of a sparkling wine in the world
- organic wineries rose by 35% in 1 year
- demand is growing for organic and biodynamic wines

As stated, everyone talked about the acidity in these wines as if Alsace invented acidity; but being from Ontario, Canada we know about acidity in wine too - far too well. It was head-shaking to listen to them talk about this. It is as if there was nothing else interesting about Alsace wine. Might I suggest digging deeper into Pinot Noir.

By the Numbers …
• 74 Exhibitors, 296 Wines Presented
• 2,850 Accredited Visitors: 621 French (22%) - 2,229 International (78%) - from 51 Countries
• 8,300 boxes shipped and more than 33,000 miniatures
• More than 350 people watched the Masterclass live


Wines Tasted...

74 producers were involved, each providing four wines each, I had seven wineries products (28 in total), see my reviews below.
These are the wines that impressed me the most:


Domaine Brigitte & Vincent Fleith 2018 AOC Alsace - Pinot Noir - ""F" 
A weightier Pinot Noir that has plenty of backbone and spice - there's also notes of black cherry that help this wine on it's way to an elegant finish.

Domaine Materne Haegelin & Filles 2019 AOC Alsace - Pinot Noir - Tradition
Super interesting wine with notes of sour cherry, cranberry with a pretty violet seam that keeps tinkling the nose.

Domaine Mittnacht Freres 2019 AOC Alsace Grand Cru Rosacker - Riesling Mittnacht
Clean and salty, quite refresing with it's dry finish and white fruit middle.

Domaine Neumeyer 2021 AOC Alsace - Riesling - Hospices
Another well-made Riesling that has flavour and depth; you could spend the afternoon with this and even swim around in it.

Domaine Paul Blanck 2017 AOC Alsace Grand Cru Schlossberg - Riesling Blanck
This is a stony-mineral driven Riesling that's got plenty of replay in the mouth; it hits all the right notes.

Famille Hauller 2019 AOC Alsace - Assemblage - Oberwinzenberg, Altitude 330
An Auxerrois / Pinot Gris blend from old vines grown at 330 meter above sea level. There is subtle sweetness, it’s clean and easy on the mid-palate with a nice finish and a great sippabilty factor that can't be denied.

Maison Arthur Metz et Proprietes 2018 AOC Alsace - Pinot Gris Vendanges Tardives
Definite peach and pear sweetness with a long finish. It's a little oily in the mouth, but this is certainly a dessert wine people will love.

Domaine Materne Haegelin & Filles 2019 AOC Alsace - Riesling - Tradition
Clean with good acidity and some nice citrus zest.

Domaine Neumeyer 2020 AOC Alsace Grand Cru Bruderthal - Riesling Neumeyer
Pretty with a floral-salty-mineral aspect that helps draw you in and keeps you interested.

Domaine Paul Blanck 2016 AOC Alsace - Pinot Noir - Cuvée F
Sweet fruited mouthfeel: cherry and raspberry comes across clean and vibrant - "F" stands for Furstentum; which are 30-year-old vines planted on mainly ferrous-marly soils."

Famille Hauller 2021 AOC Alsace - Riesling - Héritage, Vieilles Vignes
Fresh and lively with pretty floral nuances, some mineral notes and a medium-to-short finish that has a subtle citrus linger.

Maison Arthur Metz et Proprietes 2020 AOC Alsace Grand Cru Altenberg De Wolxheim - Riesling
Fresh, clean and mineral driven with nice acidity and some orange blossom on the finish.

Maison Arthur Metz et Proprietes 2020 AOC Alsace Grand Cru Florimont - Riesling - Domaine Viticole De La Ville De Colmar
More focused than the wine above, though this one is also more straight-forward with mac apple, lemon drop and mineral.

 

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